Sole Shift

Sneakers abandon excessive volumes and return to more controlled shapes. Retro models, inspired by tennis and football, define a cleaner and more contemporary style. It is a direction found both in the more faithful reinterpretations of Adidas and Nike, as well as in the more sophisticated models of New Balance and ASICS. Alongside these, a new idea of sneaker emerges: quieter, almost formal. Versions in smooth leather, without showy details, naturally blends even into more structured contexts. Brands such as Common Projects and Axel Arigato work precisely on this subtle line between sneakers and shoes, where minimalism becomes a language. This dialogue between sport and elegance clearly emerges in the Prada’s collections, where sneakers become lighter and shapes more fluid. Models such as the Montecarlo Re-Edition 2005, born in the world of sports, are reinterpreted with a soft and flexible construction, inspired by driving shoes. The materials — from calf leather to suede — convey an idea of more controlled movement, where the boundary between sneakers and shoes becomes increasingly subtle. The same balance can be found in the models by Saint Laurent, which works by subtraction. The leather Gym sneakers take up the clean lines of Seventies training shoes and transform them using more refined materials and precise construction, where sport becomes a reference rather than a function. While Prada works on balance and Saint Laurent on subtraction, Dries Van Noten introduces a more experimental approach, playing with materials and contrasts. Its suede sneakers, inspired by the world of running during the Seventies, combine textured surfaces and sophisticated palettes, maintaining a light construction and a sharp silhouette that makes them immediately contemporary. Retro sneakers are paired with tailored trousers, enter more structured contexts and lose any sporting rigidity.