Open Lines
Slits, knots and cut-outs shape a new language of revealing the body
A fabric parts as you walk. A slit follows the rhythm of a stride. A knot gathers the material, revealing just a glimpse beneath. Nothing is static; everything unfolds in motion, suspended between one gesture and the next. Openings interrupt the surface, knots shift the fabric’s balance, and precise cut-outs redraw the lines of the garment. Slits are no longer simple vertical openings but considered design elements that move in harmony with the body. Skirts part at the sides, while dresses break unexpectedly, creating moments of lightness and movement. At the same time, the knot emerges as one of the season’s most compelling design devices. Far from being purely decorative, it gathers, tightens and redirects fabric, creating tension and redefining proportions. In the collections of Jacquemus and Coperni, this gesture takes centre stage, transforming dresses and tops into dynamic forms that adapt to the body rather than constrain it. Openings multiply, yet lose any overt sense of provocation. Side cut-outs, exposed backs and intersecting panels that interrupt the continuity of the fabric all contribute to a new visual balance—one in which the body is never entirely revealed. Even in the more daring interpretations of Alaïa and Christopher Esber, skin remains part of a larger composition rather than its focal point. It ceases to be a separate element and instead becomes integral to the architecture of the look itself. As a result, even the most understated pieces, such as those seen at Lemaire, take on a new dimension. A knotted skirt, a dress punctuated by a side slit, a top opening across the back—each design explores the power of the in-between, of what is revealed only for a fleeting moment.
